Whitby Travel guide
Whitby is a picturesque town on the coast of North Yorkshire in England. It was the home of Captain Cook, but is more famous as the place where Bram Stoker’s Dracula landed in England. It had a population of 13,213 in 2011; on fine summer weekends it’s thronged with visitors, and on moonlit nights during the Goth Festivals it hosts an unknown number of the Undead.
Recommended stay: 1-2 days
Day trips: Scarborough, Robin Hoods Bay, York
Brief Overview
If there’s one essential stop on the North Yorkshire coast it’s WHITBY, with its historical associations, atmospheric ruins, fishing harbour, lively music scene and intrinsic charm. The seventh-century cliff-top abbey here made Whitby one of the key foundations of the early Christian period, and a centre of great learning. Below, on the harbour banks of the River Esk, for a thousand years the local herring boats landed their catch until the great whaling boom of the eighteenth century transformed the fortunes of the town. Melville’s Moby Dick makes much of Whitby whalers such as William Scoresby, and James Cook took his first seafaring steps from the town in 1746, on his way to becoming a national hero. All four of Captain Cook’s ships of discovery – the Endeavour, Resolution, Adventure and Discovery – were built in this town.
Walking around Whitby is one of its great pleasures. Divided by the River Esk, the town splits into two halves joined by a swing bridge: the cobbled old town to the east, and the newer (mostly eighteenth- and nineteenth-century) town across the bridge, generally known as West Cliff. Church Street is the old town’s main thoroughfare, barely changed in aspect since the eighteenth century, though now lined with tearooms and gift shops. Parallel Sandgate has more of the same, the two streets meeting at the small marketplace where souvenirs and trinkets are sold, and which hosts a farmer’s market every Thursday.
Best time to visit
Getting around Ghent
Whitby is only a small coastal town that wants to be walked, so walk!
Things to see and do
Whitby Abbey
Whitby Abbey is perhaps the most famous attraction in Whitby. While the current ruins date back to the 13th century, the first Abbey was originally founded by the Saxon King of Northumbria in 657AD. Today, these Gothic ruins sit majestically atop the East Cliff, dominating the headland. They are the most iconic site to explore in Whitby.
The impressive medieval site is also renowned for being the inspiration of one of the most famous vampire stories. It was here that the author Bram Stoker derived inspiration for his novel Dracula, published in 1897.
Whitby Abbey is now managed by English Heritage and tickets cost £10 for an adult and £6 for a child. Entrance is free to English Heritage members. To visit Whitby Abbey, you currently need to pre-book tickets online via the English Heritage website. However, you can also take in many incredible views of the Abbey from all over town free of charge.
Climb the 199 Steps
No visit to Whitby would be complete without climbing the 199 steps to St Mary’s Church (if you’re physically able). This challenging climb offers spectacular views over the town.
If you’re not able to manage the climb, don’t worry, you can drive round to St Mary’s Church to allow you to still take in the views.
The first record of the 199 steps date back to 1340, however, it is believed they are even older still! The original steps were made from wood and weren’t replaced with stone until 1774. It is believed that the 199 steps were a test of faith for those who worshipped at St Mary’s Church.
You’ll notice several benches on your way up which provide a nice place to sit and catch your breath while admiring the views. However, these were originally built to provide pallbearers a place to rest coffins being brought up to be buried at the church.
The church of St Mary’s was founded around 1110 and although many restorations and additions have occurred over the years, some parts of the church still date back to the 12th and 13th centuries.
The Whitby Piers
Whitby has two piers at the mouth of the River Esk; an east pier and a west pier, both of which have lighthouses. These piers have existed since the 1500s, first built from oak and later replaced with stone.
Only the west lighthouse is open to the public, and only on limited days. When it is open, you can climb to the top for a unique view over Whitby and the coast.
The west pier also has a lower tier which as accessible by a ladder at the end of the pier. You’ll often find fisherman on this part of the pier as fishing is only permitted from the lower tier. It also make for some interesting photographs.
Admire the view from The Whalebone Arch
The 20ft whale bone arch has become one of the most iconic landmarks in Whitby. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the whaling industry thrived in Whitby. Whaling was incredibly dangerous and so upon return, successful whalers would tie a whale’s jawbone to the ship’s mast as a signal that they had survived, and their trip had been successful.
In 1853, the whale jaw bone arch was erected in recognition of Whitby’s whaling tradition. Since then, the original bones have been replaced twice. The current replacement was donated by Alaska in 2003 and is the bone of a Bowhead whale killed legally by native Inuit.
Wander the Cobbled Streets
One of my favourite things to do in Whitby was to just meander through its labyrinth of narrow streets. The streets are lined with cute cottages, boutique shops and restaurants. As you walk along the main cobbled streets, you’ll come across lots of little alleyways and passageways leading off from them just beckoning to be explored.
Go on a Boat ride
With such strong ties to the water, Whitby makes for a wonderful place to go on a boat ride. There are a number of boating trips on offer either out onto the North Sea or along the River Esk. From whale watching excursions to sunset cruises, fishing trips or gentle row boats, there’s a boat trip for everyone!
You can’t miss places offering boat rides. Most are only £5 for a 30 minute ride.
Enjoy a beer at Whitby Brewery
Being beer lovers, we were excited to be staying within a very short walk from the Whitby Brewery, a local, microbrewery. Great place with a view of the Abbey across the road!
Visit Whitby Museums
Immerse yourself in Whitby’s rich history at one of its museums. A great option for a rainy day or if you’re visiting Whitby with kids.
Captain Cook Memorial Museum – The Captain Cook Memorial Museum explores the life and times of the famous Royal Navy captain James Cook. The museum is housed in the 17th-century building where the young James Cook served as an apprentice.
Entrances costs £7 for adults and under 16s go free.
Whitby Museum – Whitby Museum is tucked away in Pannett Park and is home to a variety of collections and artefacts. You can discover local fossils, natural history, model ships, carved jet, toys, costumes and social history.
Entrance costs £6 for adults and under 18s go free.
RNLI Whitby Lifeboat Museum –
The RNLI Whitby Lifeboat Museum is housed in a Victorian double boathouse which was once the RNLI lifeboat station. The museum contains a treasure trove of paintings, medals, photographs, models, kits and mementos from wrecks and famous rescues.
In case you’re wondering, RNLI stands for Royal National Lifeboat Institute. They are a charity that has been saving lives at sea for nearly 200 years.
Visit Whitby Goth Weekend
I would be remiss to exclude the Whitby Goth Weekend from this list! Having taken place since 1994, it has become one of the biggest events in Whitby and one of the leading Gothic events in the world.
The alternative music festival takes place twice a year, usually in April and November. During this time, you can expect to see many weird and wonderful costumes as goths from all over the country, and beyond, flock to Whitby to celebrate this subculture.
Where to stay
As we only stayed for one night we chose something close to the harbour with great reviews and an excellent breakfast.
We stayed at the Resolution Hotel
Places to Visit nearby
While you’ll find plenty of things to do in Whitby, nearby are some of the prettiest villages in England and most spectacular areas of the coast. Visit them either as part of a bigger Yorkshire road trip or as day trips from Whitby.
Heading north from Whitby, you can combine Runswick Bay, Staithes and Saltburn for a wonderful day trip full of seaside towns. Alternatively, head south to visit the charming Robin Hood’s Bay, Scarborough and the spectacular coast around Flamborough Head. From here, you can continue further afield to explore the stunning city of York.
At the right time of year you can even see puffins in Yorkshire!
Robin Hood’s Bay
As far as English villages go, Robin Hood’s Bay is easily one of the prettiest in the country. You will need a reasonable degree of fitness and mobility to explore this fascinating village. Parking is available at the cliff top, from which you can descend down through its steep cobbled streets and explore this quaint village.
Once a thriving fishing village, Robin Hood’s Bay was also a notorious smuggling route. In the 18th century, smugglers slipped through its network of winding passageways with goods such as tea, silk and tobacco.
It is also known as one of the best spots for fossil hunting in the UK. Stop by the visitor centre at the Old Coastguard Station for more information on your way in.
Getting to Whitby
By Car
While it is easiest to get to Whitby by car, and this provides the best opportunity to explore the local coastline, it is also reasonably well connected by public transport.
By Public Transport
There are direct trains to Whitby from Middlesborough, Newcastle and Sunderland. Additionally, there is a bus service from Scarborough.
For a more unique experience, it is also possible to reach Whitby by steam train. The North Yorkshire Moors Railway runs from Pickering to Whitby with the journey taking 2 hours 45 minutes. Feel like you’ve stepped back in time as you take in the beautiful scenery of the North York Moors National Park from the vintage train. Stop along the way at some beautiful villages and explore Goathland station – famous for being Hogsmeade Station in the first Harry Potter movie.
Book tours and Purchase Tickets
Final thoughts and tips
I hope you’ve found this guide to the best things to do in Whitby helpful and inspiring. It is truly one of our favourite places in England and we found it far more impressive than we ever expected.
As always, leave us a comment and let us know your thoughts or if we’ve missed anything from this guide!
Tips & Things to Know
Download Google maps – This will be your right hand when it comes to navigating Whitby or anywhere for that matter.
Be weather prepared – As commonly known, the weather can be spotty in Whitby, so make sure you check before starting your day.
Try the local delicacies – When it comes to food and drink, try something locally made with fresh British ingredients. Whitby has some of the best fish & chip shops!
Take a day trip – There are plenty of lovely neighbouring towns in the UK only a short car or train journey away. Go explore!
What to Pack
Umbrella – It never hurts to have an umbrella on hand in case of a sudden sprinkle while you’re out exploring.
Clothing Options – Depending on what vibe you’re going for, packing a mix of outfits will suit different activities.
Comfy Shoes – Whitby is a very walkable town, you’ll want to ensure having comfy shoes for all the steps you’ll be getting.
Allergy Meds – With all of the beautiful foliage comes hayfever season, so you may want to pack these in case they’re needed.
Backpack / Travel Bag – Especially if you plan to be out all day, bringing a travel bag will help ensure you have what you need.
Facts & Info
Census Population (2011) – 13,213
Time Zone – Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), British Summer Time (GMT+1)
Area Codes – +44
Airports – The nearest airport to Whitby is Durham (MME) Airport which is 33 miles away. Other nearby airports include Newcastle (NCL) (58.2 miles), Leeds Bradford (LBA) (60.4 miles) and Manchester (MAN) (103.5 miles).
Nickname – The Home of Dracula
Demonym – Northerner
Country – England, United Kingdom
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Other England Related Guides
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We love Whitby! Make sure it’s on your list when you visit Yorkshire.
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